The One I’m Trying to Keep — Rolex GMT-Master 1675

These past few months have been really busy, and most of my free time has been limited to the weekends. There has been a lot of traveling, new experiences, and plenty of learning along the way. That being said, I now find myself in Mexico City, thinking about all the recent finds and arrivals, and getting their respective captions and listings ready.

Meanwhile, sitting in the safe is my all-time favorite reference and latest addition to my personal collection: a Rolex GMT-Master 1675 in exceptional condition.

I've been having second thoughts about selling it. Then again, I never keep anything. Maybe I should start. After all, it's my favorite reference ever. Maybe I'm too used to the constant buying and selling, or maybe this one is just too good. I don't know. I figured writing about it might help get the idea of selling it out of my head.

This example was first shown to me by an employee of a company specializing in estate purchases, precious metals, and jewelry. After speaking with the owner of the business, we eventually agreed on a deal. I didn't have any particularly good pictures or a reliable description to go by, just a few photographs taken by the employee. They weren't great, but even from those pictures, I could tell it was a promising example.

What makes a good 1675?

I think it's a combination of great colors and case condition, which is generally true for most vintage Rolex watches. With GMTs, however, the bezel insert plays a huge role in the overall look. I've handled quite a few 1675s over the years, and there always seemed to be something. The case was great, but the dial had lume loss or damage. The dial was beautiful, but the case had been heavily polished or the watch had a service insert. Sometimes the insert was fantastic, but the dial had been replaced. That last one happened recently. I came across a 1968 GMT-Master with a mint fuchsia insert, but the dial was a service replacement and the case looked like a mirror.

What I'm trying to say is that finding a good combination of all these factors is surprisingly difficult. To me, the case and dial are the most important parts, the bracelet and insert can always be sourced later, although finding the right ones is another story.

So, why did I decide to keep it?

Well, it's my favorite reference ever. Those close to me know how much I love GMTs. I've owned neo-vintage examples and even some of the last matte-dial 16750s, including a particularly good one I sold last year. But I still think the 1675 is better. There's something about its slimmer case, having a non quick-set movement, and the way the case sits so flat and comfortably on the wrist, it just feels lighter. 

I also tend to get bored with some of the dress watches I have in stock. Don't get me wrong, I love them, but the look is often more sober. Gold cases, restrained dials, nothing that really pops. With a 1675, the colors immediately catch your attention. You can be wearing one somewhere completely ordinary and someone will inevitably take a second look at your wrist.

The way each section of the bezel fades is fascinating to me. Some inserts develop orange tones, while others turn salmon. Some blues fade almost completely, while others remain deep and strong. No two seem to age exactly alike. Then there are the fat-font inserts, my personal favorites. The thicker numerals give the watch more presence, almost a certain heaviness to an already colorful and interesting design. It's a small detail, but it makes a big difference to my eye.

I'm trying to change that constant salesman's mentality. I buy and sell watches almost every day, and that's part of what makes this my dream job. But sometimes it feels good knowing you have that one watch tucked away, ready to wear whenever you feel like it, without thinking numbers, some people keep them because they found a crazy deal, others because condition is crazy good, i like to think i’m just keeping this one because colors it really speaks to me. 

Now, let's get into this particular example.

This 1675 dates back to 1974 and comes fitted with an American-made C&I Oyster bracelet. I've always hated these bracelets, mostly because of how much the end links tend to move around. But the clasp code matches 1974, so I can't complain too much. It was born with it. The insert is a beautiful fat-font example that has aged particularly well. The red has developed lovely salmon hues, while the blue has remained dark and strong. It's exactly the kind of color combination I look for. The case is stunning, thick, and with very pronounced chamfers. After discussing it with a few friends, we agreed that it appears to have seen only very minor polishing, if any. The edges are remarkably preserved, and the overall condition is something you can really appreciate once the watch is on your wrist.

The dial is equally impressive, excellent condition. The lume on the hands is even and stable, matching the tone of the hour plots beautifully. That kind of consistency is something I don't come across very often. Everything seems to come together on this one. The case, the dial, the colors, the bracelet. There isn't that one detail I wish were different, which is usually what happens when I find a vintage GMT.

How long will I actually keep it?

I've been asking myself that question quite a bit lately. I was recently talking to an experienced dealer here in Mexico, and he gave me a simple piece of advice: "Just act like it doesn't exist. Put it in the safe."

I understand what he means, and perhaps that's the easiest way to avoid selling it. But I've been wearing it at least three times a week, and even more on weekends. What's the point of owning your favorite watch if you're not going to enjoy it? For now, I'm happy to keep it, wear it, and appreciate it. At the end of the day, isn't this what I've always wanted?

Is it financially responsible to keep something I could easily sell? Probably not. But I've been very strict with my personal collection over the past few years, and perhaps it's time to make an exception. After all, there will always be another watch to buy and sell. Finding another 1675 quite like this one might not be so easy.